Shown in Phoebe Philo’s first runway show for Céline, this cross-laced dress embodies the collection’s proposition of utilitarian shapes in honest, hardwearing fabrics, heavily underscored by references to military outerwear.

Constructed from sturdy camel-brown cotton gabardine, the dress features lambskin leather laces criss-crossed through gold metal eyelets, which allows the neckline to be loosened as desired. Its wide short sleeves and sack-shaped silhouette offer ease of movement.

Though less discernible, the military influence is present in this piece. Faint rectangles outlined by stitch holes suggest remnants of pockets; an indication of a seemingly repurposed garment. The lace-up collars and multi-pocketed front point toward loose army smocks as the potential originator, much like those worn by the US Navy and the Italian Army during the mid-20th century.