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Céline • Spring-Summer 2014
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Known for her pared-down minimalist designs, Phoebe Philo pivots Céline’s direction for its Spring 2014 collection towards primal bold-colored brushstrokes inspired by Brassaï’s “Graffiti” series – an unexpected shift that proved to be a seminal one.
The capstone was a series of wrap coats made in knitted jacquard fabric, which were the collection's zenith in terms of textile design.
In parallel with Brassaï’s photographs of rough-hewn wall carvings, the jacquard on this coat is equally tactile as it is graphic. The strokes are rendered in various textures: the parts in white appear to be embroidered; raised relative to the black and colored areas, while darts and certain seams were made into vertical slashes with raw-edge finishes. It is woven in such a way the reverse side appears like an entirely different fabric altogether, further explored and used as the exterior of other garments in the same collection.
Brushstroke coat in textured jacquard
Céline • Spring-Summer 2014