Known for her pared-down minimalist designs, Phoebe Philo pivots Céline’s direction for its Spring 2014 collection towards primal bold-colored brushstrokes inspired by Brassaï’s “Graffiti” series – an unexpected shift that proved to be a seminal one.

The capstone was a series of wrap coats made in knitted jacquard fabric, which were the collection's zenith in terms of textile design.

In parallel with Brassaï’s photographs of rough-hewn wall carvings, the jacquard on this coat is equally tactile as it is graphic. The strokes are rendered in various textures: the parts in white appear to be embroidered; raised relative to the black and colored areas, while darts and certain seams were made into vertical slashes with raw-edge finishes. It is woven in such a way the reverse side appears like an entirely different fabric altogether, further explored and used as the exterior of other garments in the same collection.