At Céline’s FW 2017 show, overarching references to militaria were evident on garments such as trench coats constructed out of British War Office maps, and wrinkled reproductions of French Army motorcycle coats.

For the jewelry offering, the definitive highlight was a series of gold letter pendants dubbed “Alphabet”, which were either worn singly on chain necklaces or strung onto jersey ties in multiples. Crafted in gold-plated brass, these pendants have finely incised striations that enhance their brilliance.

The irregular forms of these pendants appear somewhat skeletal in character, with articulations resembling segments and joints of phalanges. The pendants’ bone-like appearance aligns with the collection’s war overtones, perhaps serving as an elevated, contemporary form of memento mori.

While initial necklaces aren’t a new concept, Céline’s reimagining gained widespread appeal upon its introduction, subsequently prompting numerous iterations and imitations of similar initial letter necklaces from both high-street and luxury brands, affirming the French house’s agenda-setting influence across fashion.